Island hopping is paradise in Palawan

 


Two metre waves toss the Katrina Alexandria around like it’s a toy. Blustery wind blasts salty air into my face as the 26-metre boat with dual outriggers crawls through the roller coaster of waves.

In the distance, I see a small island lined with white sand, lanky palms and water so blue it appears to be glowing. It looks like an oasis from the angry ocean. I can’t wait to get there.

“We will have some big waves today,” says our guide, as we plunge into a sea of whitecaps. But the 23 travellers on board don’t seem to care. We are thrilled to begin the three-day adventure through one of the most beautiful places on Earth – Palawan, Philippines.

In need of an escape from the Canadian winter, my partner, Mirko, and I came to the Philippines to explore the tropical islands of Bohol, Cebu and Palawan. The Philippines consists of more than 7,000 islands with diverse flora, fauna and marine life, and the friendly locals make independent travel easy on these islands.

Located on the southwestern edge of the archipelago, the remote island province of Palawan is known for unique karst landscapes with hidden lagoons, World War II wrecks, caves and magical coral reefs teeming with fish.

Originally, the plan was to spend four days exploring the hidden gems of Palawan on a four-day island-hopping adventure with Big Dream Boatman Expeditions. But the trip was shortened due to strong winds that blasted the region for days, threatening to cancel it altogether.  Now here we were, braving the big waves of our first open water crossing to get to our first snorkeling destination at Cobra Island.

“That island ahead looks like a postcard,” says Mirko, as he holds onto the railing of the boat that’s violently swaying back and forth.

My brain switches into vacation mode the moment I get off the boat and step onto the island’s pillowy soft sand where a few people are playing beach volleyball. Flip flops are no longer required. The only thing I need to think about is if I put on enough sunscreen.

According to our guide, there are hundreds of islands between El Nido and Coron, which is why island hopping is among the most popular activities in Palawan. But most trips are day tours that go to the same areas, which means they are often crowded with tourists.

A multi-day expedition allows travelers to go farther to escape the crowds and explore places that are more off the beaten path. It’s the reason Oli Canavan and Krish Reigno founded Big Dream Boatman Expeditions in 2016.

“There is no other place in the world where you can take such an expedition in which you sleep in different basecamps along the way, see the incredible reefs and snorkel, and make friends whilst you do it and it still feels remote,” said Canavan, noting the highlight for guests is often the friendly and attentive crew.

“We are very passionate about making sure people leave with the feeling that they’ve made a friend in the Philippines. Filipino people are by nature very friendly and funny.”

After lazing in lounge chairs while cruising to the next destination and snorkeling among colourful fish and coral that looks like a work of art, we arrive at our base camp for the night on a large island. 

A row of rustic bamboo cottages with thatched roofs line the beach dotted with palm trees swaying gently in the breeze. There is no wi-fi, no hot showers or any other luxuries of modern life. The only thing inside the cottage is a fan and mattress with a mosquito net hanging above. Electricity is available for a few hours.

Later that evening, we gather on the beach to feast on delicious local food prepared by our crew, then sit around a bonfire before retreating to our cottages and falling asleep to the sound of waves. This was our routine for the next two days, providing a chance to disconnect from the modern world and immerse ourselves in nature.  

“Have you ever seen anything like this? It doesn’t even look real!” I say, as our boat slowly pulls into a beautiful lagoon near the entrance of Kayangan Lake near Coron on the final day of the adventure.

Towering limestone cliffs surround the turquoise water that’s so clear I can easily see the coral from the boat. This is truly paradise, making it difficult to ever come back to reality.

WATCH: Island hopping in Palawan 

IF YOU GO: Big Dream Boatman Expeditions are among a handful of companies that offer multi-day excursions from El Nido to Coron and vise versa. The expeditions are typically four days and three nights, while other companies offer longer trips in the region.