B.C. travel: A view worth sweating for: Hiking Tofino's Lone Cone

“Is that the mountain we’re hiking?” asks Paul nervously as we drive into the picturesque town of Tofino, B.C. on Vancouver Island.

“Yes, I believe it is,” I reply with a forced giggle, not expecting the mountain that dominates the skyline to be so daunting.

It’s my 34th birthday and I wanted to do something challenging to prove to myself that I’m still a young pup at heart. And after doing much research on hikes with the best views of Tofino, Lone Cone seemed like the perfect challenge to test my aging legs.

Located 6 km from Tofino on the northwest end of Meares Island, Lone Cone is described as a difficult, very steep trail. The hike is only 6.6 km return, but has an elevation gain of 730 metres in 3.3 km. It would be my most intense hike yet.

I wouldn’t exactly call myself an avid hiker. It’s only within the last two years that I started to get hooked after wandering off the beaten path and into the backcountry of the Rocky Mountains in Alberta.

Now living on Vancouver Island, I was pumped to explore my new surroundings and tackle one of the more challenging hikes the island has to offer. Paul, however, was less than thrilled; only humouring me because it was my birthday.

“Are you sure you want to do this? There’s another hike on the island that’s easier and way shorter,” I ask Paul as we get onto the water taxi for the 15-minute boat ride to the trailhead. I could sense his apprehension about the grueling task that lied ahead of us all afternoon. I was feeling the same way, but Paul didn’t waver and stuck to the plan.

After a short stroll down a gravel road, we arrived at the trailhead and paid  $10 each to the local natives manning the trail. The trail starts by winding its way through low-lying trees and shrubs. Rocks and roots sticking out of the well-beaten path make it difficult to take our eyes off the ground.

Watching our footing, we keep an eye open for the pink ribbons tied around trees, guiding which way to go when the trail isn’t clear. The path soon opens to forest lined with dazzling green ferns and some trees as thick as a car. I marvel at their size. They make Paul look like a child when he stands next to them.

The hike is meant to take a minimum of five hours return, but I’m determined to crush that, and Paul set the pace to do so. It doesn’t take long, however, before my boots start feeling like concrete blocks once the trail turns to a 45-degree angle that never seems to end. 

Drenched in sweat, our pace gets slower as we frequently stop to catch our breath. But we manage to pass three younger hikers, filling us with pride as we charge up the trail. 

 In order to ease my discomfort, I focus on the views that lie ahead, knowing we’re in for an incredible reward if we make it without having a heart attack. Even though our spirits are high, I promise Paul there won’t be any more challenging hikes planned in the near future.

Two hours after starting the hike, we’re standing on top of the world, soaking in panoramic views of Tofino and its many surrounding islands packed with a carpet of trees. Some of them harbor secluded beaches lined with white sand. The ocean sparkles like a jewel in the hot afternoon sun.

I look at Paul as he excitedly chats with a handful of other hikers soaking in the rewards of a grueling hike. Even though he’s not a hiker, a smile is etched upon his glowing face.

“That was hard,” said Paul. “Scratch that one off the list.”