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| Swimming with sea turtles is a must do when visiting Barbados. Photo by Mirko Freund |
“What is that?” I shout through my snorkel and freeze to
observe two giant fish swimming aggressively below me.
They look like sharks getting ready to feast on the
smorgasborg of snorkellers floating near our boat. A wave of panic ripples
through my body.
“It’s a tarpon,” replies my guide. “Don’t worry, they won’t
hurt you.”
I try to relax and enjoy the unique experience of snorkeling
in the calm, clear water of Carlisle Bay near Bridgetown – the capital of Barbados. Like many places
along the tiny Caribbean island’s spectacular coast lined with silky white sand
and turquoise water, the bay has an abundance of marine life living amongst reefs
and a few shipwrecks.
But I’m not here to see angry looking tarpons or other
creepy looking sea creatures that make me want to leap back into the boat. I’m
here to snorkel with the gentle giants of the sea – turtles.
Averaging 32 to 48 inches long and weighing up to 500 pounds, green turtles are regular visitors to many locations around Barbados, along with hawksbill and leatherback turtles at certain times of the year. All marine turtles are listed as endangered species and strict conservation measures are being used to save them from extinction. This makes seeing them even more special.
It doesn’t take long before we spot our first green turtle munching
on a plant on the sandy ocean floor. It’s about 20 feet below me and glides
through the water like a feather. Soon, another turtle swims into sight and
comes to the surface for air. Being in the water with them is magical. So is
being in Barbados during the icy grip of a Canadian winter.
With temperatures around 30C, it’s easy to never leave the all-inclusive resorts, feasting on buffets, then lying around on beach chairs, drinking rum cocktails until sunset. This is part of the experience when visiting Barbados and the locals have a term for it – breezing. But after a few days of breezing, I was eager to explore what else was on the island that’s only 34 km long and 23 km wide, and home to 288,000 people.
Located on the eastern edge of the Caribbean, the lush Barbados
countryside consists of rolling hills dotted with lanky palm tress, sugarcane
fields, sleepy villages with chattel houses, and gullies that are home to a
growing population of green monkeys.
Barbados has very little surface water, but underground is a
labyrinth of freshwater streams housed in limestone caves. Formed half a
million years ago, Harrison’s Cave is at least 2.3 kilometres long. A small, electrically
operated tram takes people down 160 feet into the cave to view clear streams,
pools, stalactites, and stalagmites that are growing by less than the thickness
of a piece of paper each year.
“Does this not amaze you?” says my guide as she shines a light on a wall that looks covered in ice. “This is millions of rain drops that have come under the Earth. It excites me every time I see it.”
Above ground, a warm breeze that feels like summer wraps around
me like a blanket whenever I stop to enjoy other scenic places around the
island. On the wild and less populated east coast, I watch big waves rolling in
from the Atlantic slam into unique rock formations scattered along Bathsheba
Beach. At the higher altitude PEG Farm and Nature Reserve, I soak in sweeping
views of the island before a sudden downpour sends me running to a nearby
chicken coop to take cover with a group of school children visiting the farm.
I also feel the warm breeze wafting through Hunte’s Garden,
where opera music screeches through the air every morning. It took the
80-year-old creator and owner, Anthony Hunte two years to make the 2.5-acre
garden that’s packed with exotic flora and fauna, which overwhelms my senses.
Located on a former sugar plantation that operated until the 1940s, Hunte has now lost count of how many plants are in the garden, but most have been imported from other tropical destinations.
“It’s all about sitting down, relaxing and chilling,” says
Hunte, who was inspired to create the garden by his friends. “I started
gardening with my grandma when I was four so I was passionately interested in
plants. I am always happy to be in my garden.”
Before leaving Barbados, I head to the village of Oistins,
which transforms into a festive atmosphere on Friday nights for the famous fish
fry. It’s a sea of food stalls with chefs cooking flying fish, marlin,
mahi-mahi, lobster and other exotic seafood on an open grill. Dancers entertain
the large crowds feasting on huge plates of seafood and drinking rum at
communal tables near the beach. It’s all part of breezing in Barbados.
Published by the Edmonton Sun, January 2023 https://edmontonsun.com/travel/international/breezing-on-the-beach-and-swimming-with-sea-turtles-in-barbados
WATCH VIDEO: Barbados: Beyond the beaches
If you go:
The south and west coast of Barbados is where you’ll find most
of the restaurants, nightlife, accommodation, and calm water for snorkeling.
Located near the lively neighbourhood of St. Lawrence Gap, The Sands has
spacious rooms and a nice beach for swimming. On the west coast, Mango Bay Hotel
is close to shopping, restaurants and nightlife in Holetown, with great
snorkeling right off the beach. For unique dining experiences, try Cocktail
Kitchen or Calma Beach Club.
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| The picturesque village of Bathsheba on the wild east coast of Barbados. |