My hands are trembling, but I can’t stop paddling my shiny red kayak. Eyes focused on the small forested island in the distance, I plunge my paddle into the choppy ocean, counting to two with each stroke to help ease my racing mind. But it doesn’t work.
Crossing Shute Passage in the Gulf Islands is only supposed
to take about 20 minutes in a kayak, but I’m anxious to get across before a gigantic
BC Ferry appears. It’s a race against the clock, and the friendly water I
glided across the previous day has now turned into the enemy.
“How are you paddling so fast?” yells my friend Meike from
her kayak that’s now getting further behind me.
“It’s fear!” I shout back as I try to calm my nerves. The ocean pushes my 17-foot kayak around like it’s a toy. But the small island ahead is coming closer, offering a welcome refuge from the anger of the open ocean. I paddle harder. I can’t wait to get near land.
I’m always up for an adventure, so when Meike suggested we
kayak from Swartz Bay near Sidney to Portland Island and camp overnight, my
restless spirit was delighted. In the last two years, we’ve gone on two
overnight kayaking trips in the Gulf Islands, but this trip involved the largest
open water crossing we’ve ever made.
Located in the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve, Portland
Island spans 575 hectares that can be explored through more than 10 kilometres
of hiking trails meandering through and around the island dotted with cliffs,
protected coves and sandy beaches. According to Parks Canada, the island was
once the site of a First Nations village, but was later settled in the 1880s by
Hawaiian immigrants who farmed the land. In 1958, the island was presented as a
gift to Princess Margaret to commemorate her visit to B.C. She returned the
island as a provincial park nine years later.
Today, Portland Island is a popular destination for boaters and kayakers, and has three small backcountry campgrounds (Shell Beach, Princess Bay and Arbutus Point) along the ocean that are linked by the trails. The campgrounds aren’t fancy, consisting of only an outhouse and food cache to keep the raccoons away. Those who venture to the island must also bring their own water.
On the sunny morning we leave Victoria and drive to Sidney, the
wind picks up, making me anxious to head onto the water. I can’t swim and I’ve
never taken a kayaking course, but Meike has so I trust her to pluck me out of
the water if I run into trouble. Currents, tides and wind speeds are something
you should know about and check before heading onto the ocean or you could get
yourself into serious trouble.
We launch our kayak at the government dock beside the Swartz
Bay ferry terminal. The first big crossing is Colburn Passage, which is
intimidating due to the ferries and small boats flying in and out marinas just
around the corner. I enter the passage with trepidation. My eyes are glued on
the man paddling a canoe ahead of us since he’s also headed for the same
destination as us.
After an hour of steady paddling across mainly calm water, the dazzling white Shell Beach lined with turquoise water appears, flooding me with relief and excitement. A handful of kayaks are perched on the driftwood that litters the beach void of people. It’s perfect.
“Looks like we found paradise,” says Meike as she takes a
moment to soak in the beauty around her.
We quickly set up our tents in the small grassy area
overlooking the beach, then head out to explore the island by foot. The trail
winds through clusters of ferns, twisted Garry oaks and arbutus trees that reveal
views of sheltered coves, shell-midden beaches and snow-capped mountains
looming in the distance.
The evening is spent sipping wine on the beach, watching the setting sun transform the ocean into a work of art. Shades of purple, pink and orange glisten on the calm water. It feels like we’re miles away from civilization until a BC Ferry passes by looking like a floating palace as darkness arrives.
In my tent, I drift to sleep listening to the waves gently lapping against the shore. There’s something extremely satisfying about paddling to an island only accessible by boat – even if the journey getting there and back scares the crap out of you.
IF YOU GO:
Operated by Parks Canada, the three backcountry campgrounds
on Portland Island are first-come, first served. Shell Beach and Arbutus Point
campground have six primitive sites and Princess Bay Campground has 12 sites.
The cost to camp is $10 per night. For more information visit https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/gulf/activ/camping/campinglarrierepays-backcountrycamping#PrincessMargaret
- published in the Vancouver Sun, July 2021: https://vancouversun.com/travel/day-tripping-to-portland-island-a-paddlers-paradise
