When you feel the need to lace up your hiking boots, B.C.’s
southern west coast is the place to be. There are a wide variety of scenic
trails, ranging from easy day hikes to challenging multi-day treks that meander
along the ocean, plunge into lush rain forests or plop hikers on top of a
mountain with dramatic, mind-blowing views. Here are some of the finest hikes on
Vancouver Island.
Coast Trail, East Sooke Park (southern Vancouver Island)
Length: 10 km one way (6.2 miles)
Considered one of the premier day hikes in Canada, the Coast
Trail in East Sooke Park can be challenging even for an experienced hiker, but
the constant views of the snow-capped Olympic Mountains across the Strait of
Juan de Fuca take your mind off the roller coaster ride of ups and downs across
exposed rocks with windswept pines. The trail begins at either Aylard Farm on
the south end of the park or Pike Road at the north end, which usually has less
people and involves a 20-minute hike through the forest to reach the rugged
shoreline. At times, the rough and winding trail hugs the side of small cliffs,
then plunges into a dark forest with moss-covered trees and endless rows of
ferns in a lush ravine. It’s hard to resist discovering what’s around the next
corner.
West Coast Trail (southern Vancouver Island)
Length: 75 km (47 miles)
If you’ve never heard of the West Coast Trail, then you may
want to question your existence as a hiker. Located on the Island’s rugged west
coast, the world-renowned trek is considered by some to be the most challenging
in North America. The trail starts in the logging/fishing village of Port
Renfrew and runs north through Pacific Rim National Park to Bamfield,
traversing through wild and remote coastal areas. You’ll spend five to seven
days ascending and descending dozens of ladders (some 30 feet high), crossing
rivers and streams bridged by massive trees, traversing canyons in a cable car,
and camping on pristine beaches under the stars. A new third entrance has now
been added at Nitinaht, allowing hikers to do half the trail. A permit is
needed through Parks Canada to do the popular hike. Book well in advance since
there are a limited number of spaces available and the trail is only open from
May 1 to Sept. 30.
Juan de Fuca Marine Trail (southern Vancouver Island)
Length: 47 km (29 miles)
If hiking for five to seven days through rugged and remote
coastal terrain doesn’t sound like you’re idea of a good time, then you may
want to consider doing the much shorter Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. Often
referred to as a practice run for the West Coast Trail, the Juan de Fuca Marine
Trail stretches 47 km (29 miles) along the southern coast of Vancouver Island
from China Beach on the south end to Botanical Beach on the north end (near
Port Renfrew), and takes three to four days to complete. This rugged wilderness
trail mainly runs along the ocean, taking hikers on plenty of ups and downs
through sections of rainforest, across suspension bridges, past waterfalls,
grottos, interesting rock formations and beaches with tide pools. It is also
accessible by car from several points along Highway 14, allowing hikers to do
small sections if they prefer — or escape the trail if they’ve had enough.
There are four designated trailheads at Botanical Beach, Parkinson Creek,
Sombrio Beach and China Beach. Several campsites are also along the trail.
Avatar Grove (southern Vancouver Island)
Length: 3 km (1.86 miles)
If you want to see some big, gnarly trees that look like
they’re from another world, then this is the place to come for a leisurely
hike. Located 20 minutes from the village of Port Renfrew, Avatar Grove is a
50-hectare area that is now protected from clear-cut logging. The trail is
divided into two sections: upper grove and lower grove, and can be a bit tough
to find so keep an eye open for the small signs along the bumpy logging road.
Wooden stairs and a boardwalk take hikers through an old growth forest filled
with trees growing on trees, ferns, and massive Douglas Firs and Red Cedars —
some with huge twisted and contorted burls that don’t even look real. One tree
has been dubbed Canada’s Gnarliest Tree. The towering trees are more than 500
years old. Some have a circumference of more than 40 feet.
Mount Arrowsmith (Port Alberni, central island
Length: 6 km (3.7 miles)
At 1,819 metres, Mount Arrowsmith is the highest mountain on
southern Vancouver Island and comes with a number of challenging routes to
choose from. The Judges Route is the quickest way to the summit, but it’s a
steep slog with an elevation gain of about 1,000 metres, exposed sections and
scrambles. Another option is the Saddle Route, which is about 2 km (1.2 miles)
with an elevation gain of 400 metres, and takes hikers onto the ridge
connecting Mount Cokely and Mount Arrowsmith. The route to both trailheads is
accessed by a logging road off Highway 4 and can be a bit tricky to find
without a map, but there are a few signs to help along the way. Once on the
trail, which is marked with ribbons, it doesn’t take long before the forest
transforms into alpine shrubs, wildflowers, and large rock faces. The top
offers 360 views of Vancouver Island and it’s mountainous interior. On a clear
day the Coast Mountains can be seen on the mainland.
Wild Pacific Trail (Ucluelet, Pacific Rim)
Length: 8.4 km (5.2 miles)
Ranked as Trip Advisor’s number one attraction on Vancouver
Island, it’s hard not to have high expectations before you step onto the Wild
Pacific Trail. But don’t be intimidated by its name. Hugging the coastline of
the Ucluth Peninsula, the well developed trail is an easy, family-friendly walk
that can be done in three sections: the Lighthouse Loop, Big Beach and Brown’s
Beach to Ancient Cedars. The loops run almost entirely along the rocky
shoreline, offering plenty of lookout points to stop and soak in the ocean
views or watch storms roll in over the Pacific Ocean. The trails also take
hikers close to the shoreline to experience the power of large ocean swells,
onto rocky bluffs, through an array of twisted trees and into an old growth
rainforest. Whales can be spotted most of the year, but are particularly active
in March and April.
Lone Cone (Tofino, Pacific Rim)
Length: 7 km (4.3 miles)
It’s hard not to miss Lone Cone when you’re in the laid-back
surfing town of Tofino on Vancouver Island’s west coast. At 742 metres, the
cone-shaped mountain dramatically rises from the ocean in Clayoquot Sound,
dominating the skyline of this picturesque region. Located on Meares Island,
getting to Lone Cone requires a water taxi service that takes about 15 minutes,
and the hike to the summit is a strenuous one, with an elevation gain of 730
metres in 3.3 km (2 miles). The trail starts by winding through low-lying trees
and shrubs, then opens to forests lined with dazzling green ferns and thick
trees before turning into a steep climb straight up the mountain that never
seems to end. But the spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean and surrounding
islands coated in trees make up for the sweaty journey getting to the top.
Mount Albert Edward (Strathcona Provincial Park, central
island)
Length: 15 km (9.3 miles) one way
Found in the eastern sector of Strathcona Provincial Park,
Mount Albert Edward is the sixth highest peak (2,093 metres) on Vancouver
Island and one of the easiest mountains to get to. Accessed through the Mount
Washington Nordic Lodge parking lot, the hike is best done in two or three
days. The trail starts along the boardwalks running through Paradise Meadows,
then eventually passes by a series of small lakes. A popular option is to spend
the night at Circlet Lake, which is located about 10 km in, then make the push
for the summit the next day. The biggest elevation gain is climbing up the
lower part of a ridge near the lake, which is where the great views begin once
above the treeline. The early part of the ridge provides the best views of
Albert Edward and the small icefield below. Standing on the rocky ridge leading
up to the summit feels like you’ve stepped into another world.
Nootka Trail (mid island)
Length: 40 km (24 miles)
For those looking to really get away from it all, this is
the hike for you. But getting to this rugged and remote wilderness trail, which
typically takes four to eight days, takes a bit more effort than usual. In
order to reach the trail that runs along the west coast of Nootka island
(located off the west coast of Vancouver Island), hikers must take either a
floatplane or water taxi from Gold River. Most people do the trail from north
to south, starting at Louie Bay and ending at the small community and historic
site of Yuquot (Friendly Cove) —where Captain James Cook became the first
European to set foot on B.C. in March 1778. Because of its remote location,
there are few people on the trail, allowing more opportunities to see wildlife
such as black bears, wolves, river otters and eagles. Most of the hike is done
along the ocean on rock shelves, boulders and white sandy beaches, offering
never-ending views of the impressive surf break that’s constantly battering the
coast. One of the highlights is Calvin Falls where surf huts are hidden in the
woods nearby.
Cape Scott Trail (north island)
Length: 16.8 km (10.4 miles) one way (to Nels Bight)
Located on the northern tip of Vancouver Island, the trails
that run through Cape Scott Provincial Park take hikers off the beaten path.
Like Nootka Island, coming here is an adventure into the wild to explore
pristine rainforests, wide stretches of remote beaches and observe nature at
its finest. The park offers more than 100 km of backcountry trails that range
from easy day hikes to challenging multi-day treks. Following the route of an
old telegraph line, the Cape Scott Trail is a classic trek for beginners and
intermediate hikers, and takes five to six hours to reach Nels Bight, where
many set up camp along the 2,400-metre long beach to explore the rest of the
park and the Cape Scott Lighthouse. The remains of 19th-century
Danish settlements can also be seen along the way. Those looking for a longer
trip can hop onto the North Coast Trail — a 43 km (26 miles) extension to the
original Cape Scott Trail. Known as one of the most challenging hikes in
Canada, the total hiking distance is about 60 km (37 miles) and many sections
require hikers to climb over or along fallen trees, cross deep mud and use
fixed ropes to climb up and over steep sections.
Ripple Rock (Campbell River, central island)
Length: 8 km (5 miles)
Compared to some of the other hikes found on Vancouver Island,
the Ripple Rock trail isn’t all that exciting. But it’s the final destination
that makes the short hike worth the time. Located 16 km (10 miles) north of
Campbell River, the trail mainly meanders through the woods, offering a few
viewpoints of Menzies Bay, then heads up a set of stairs to the bluffs
overlooking Seymour Narrows — a treacherous pass less than a kilometre wide
between Vancouver Island and Maud Island that once contained one of the most
notorious marine hazards (an underwater mountain) in North America. In April
1958, the largest man-made, non-nuclear explosion in history occurred here,
breaking up an estimated 370,000 tonnes of rock to make the pass safer. The
viewpoint overlooks the location of the Ripple Rock explosion, where the water
currents still churn at a dizzying pace as large ships carefully pass through.
Della Falls (Strathcona Provincial Park, central island)
Length: 15 km (9.3 miles) (one way)
Like some of the more challenging hikes on Vancouver Island,
Della Falls takes a bit more effort to get to, but the reward at the end of the
trail includes a waterfall 444 metres high, marking the highest falls in
Canada. The trailhead is accessed by taking a boat or water taxi for 33 km
across Grand Central Lake near the small city of Port Alberni. After that, it’s
a 15 km hike up a gentle uphill slope most of the way to the base of the falls,
which are at their best in mid July. The trail mainly follows a creek that’s
crossed several times on wooden bridges, metal bridges and a cable car.
Wilderness camping is allowed in designated backcountry sites, and many hikers
take a side trip to Love Lake. Getting there, however, is a strenuous journey
with an elevation gain of just over 960 metres.
— published by Matador Network August 2018