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Standing on a sandy beach along the North
Sea, I watch groups of people slowly wading through ankle-deep mud.
They look like toddlers learning how to
walk. Laughter fills the air until they reach hard-packed sand that’s covered
with a thin sheen of water only a few inches deep.
“Do I have to walk in the mud?” I ask my
boyfriend Mirko.
“Yes, you have to walk in the mud,” he
replies. “That is what you do here.”
I look at the white capri pants I’m wearing
and cringe. But if walking through mud is part of experiencing the largest
tidal flats system in the world, then I’ll gladly change into shorts and take
the sticky plunge.
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| The mudflats near Cuxhaven. Photo by Mirko Freund |
Located west of Hamburg, the seaside town of
Cuxhaven is situated where the Elbe River meets the North Sea. Large container
ships are regularly seen entering and leaving the Elbe that flows through Hamburg
100 km downstream. It’s also the starting point for intertidal mudflat hikes in
Hamburg Wadden Sea National Park.
The park is part of the 11,500 square
kilometre UNESCO Wadden Sea World Heritage Site, which recognizes the unique
geological and ecological values of the area that’s an essential resting place
for millions of migratory birds. The slope of the sea floor along Denmark,
Germany and the Netherlands is shallow, resulting in water that recedes
sometimes up to 15 kilometres during low tide. This makes it possible to walk
to nearby islands (recommended with a guide for safety).
“So this is what Germans do for fun?” I ask
Mirko, as we carefully wade through slippery ankle-deep mud that feels
surprisingly good on my feet.
“Yes. I guess Germans are weird, hey?”
replies Mirko, who moved from Germany to Vancouver Island 14 years ago.
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| Rothenburg, Germany. Photo by Mirko Freund |
During holidays and special occasions at my
grandparent’s house, the conversations would be half German, half English.
There was always German music playing in the background at Christmas, and everyone
on my mom’s side of the family has been to Germany. Ten years ago, I got a
taste of Germany during a five-hour layover in Frankfurt. Wandering through
Frankfurt’s old town was surprisingly emotional and left me eager to come back
and explore more.
Now here I was, flying down the Autobahn
with Mirko behind the wheel of our rental car and his two teenage boys asleep
in the back seat. Excitement rushes through me the further we drive south of Hamburg,
passing endless fields dotted with wind turbines.
Six hours later, we arrive in the medieval town
of Rothenburg – a place I learned about as a kid due to my last name (Roth). Located
between Frankfurt and Munich, Rothenburg is one of the best-known medieval
towns in Germany and is famous for its well-preserved old town that dates back
to the 13th century.
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| Neuschwanstein Castle. Photo by Mirko Freund. |
“This place feels like being in a living
museum,” says Mirko, as he stops to take a photo of the town wall.
The road trip also includes a stop in Munich’s
old town before heading towards the Alps to soak in sweeping views from
Germany’s highest peak – the Zugspitze at 2,962 metres. We also admire King
Ludwig II’s magnificent castles – the lavishly decorated Linderhof Palace and
Neuschwanstein Castle. They look like works of art thanks to the elusive king
obsessed with building opulent castles.
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| Stade, Germany. Photo by Mirko Freund. |
Known as one of the largest fruit growing
regions in Europe, the Altes Land has several large half-timbered farmhouses
(some with thatched roofs) sprinkled amongst the towns and dykes that weave
through the countryside. It’s a peaceful area to explore, especially on a bicycle.
“Now this is how I always pictured Germany,”
I say to Mirko, as we stroll along cobblestone streets of Otterndorf before
heading to the mud flats in Cuxhaven. The street is lined with half-timbered
A-frame homes that look like dollhouses.
I can’t stop smiling. My curiosity about Germany
has finally been satisfied.
WATCH: A road trip through Bavaria https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58XVi-f8k-k&t=1s
